If you’re craving rugged adventure in one of the most beautiful landscapes, then this is for you. Driving the Ho Chi Minh Road was a favorite travel adventure, exploring remote landscapes, meeting local people, and taking in the best views.
The Ho Chi Minh road weaves between mountains and fields hugging the Laos border. Here you will spot elusive wildlife, pristine waterfalls, and limestone karsts that feel like you’re in King Kong’s Skull Island (maybe since it was filmed back here). From the caves of Phong Nha, the war history in Khe Sahn, and the peaceful villages and landscapes in between, you won’t want to miss driving the Ho Chi Minh road!
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Before speeding off on any adventure abroad, be sure you have your International Driving Permit. This will avoid any issues with the local police, ensure insurance protection in the event of a crash, and give you one less thing to worry about!
Learn everything you need to know about the IDP in this guide.
History of the Ho Chi Minh Road
To clarify, this is NOT the Ho Chi Minh Trail – the secretive trail used to move weapons and products into Southern Vietnam during the war. That trail is mostly in Laos and is better suited for bicycles or dirt bikes. Although an amazing adventure for another time, this article is on the Ho Chi Minh Road, a paved road that weaves between rural fields and limestone karsts in some of the most remote areas of Vietnam.
This drive isn’t for everyone. It will require some motorbike driving skills, and a desire to push yourself to get out of your comfort zone while diving into the local lifestyle. This is not a heavily populated route, which is hard to find nowadays in popular tourist countries.
There is so much history in this area. Check out this podcast on the history and landscape of Phong Nha
Starting the Journey
Although driving the Ho Chi Minh road doesn’t technically start until much further inland, there are some amazing sights to see along the coast you won’t want to miss. This beautiful drive starts in Hội An, a gem of a city filled with lanterns, textiles, and happy cyclists. We spent 2 weeks in Hội An and loved every second of it!
There are many options for bike rental companies to choose from and I suggest stopping into all of them to chat with the shop owners, see the bikes, and pick up some info.
We talked with Style Motorbike, and Tuan Motorbikes, both of which have shops all over Vietnam and offer one-way rentals. You can also start your journey in Đà Nẵng, and check in with Tigit Motorbikes also!
Our Set-up
We went with a Honda XR-150 L from Tuan Motorbikes, and it was perfect. It was a manual, with a small luggage rack, extra tires, and great customer support should we need it (and we did).
I don’t drive manual (yet), so we loaded 2 people, 1 big backpack, and 2 small day bags on a single bike. We were careful to pack everything we could need in Southeast Asia, and especially loved having sunscreen, a water filter, and a water bladder to use while driving. Thankfully my boyfriend Matt is a great driver and loves the adventure!
The total cost was $20/day + $50 one-way rental fee. They provided bungee straps for our bags, 2 free tires that we would only pay for if we used them, and 2 full-face helmets.
If we did it again, we would upgrade to a bike with storage built onto the back that locks, and ideally get 2 bikes instead of 1 (time for me to learn to drive)!
Day 1 - Đà Nẵng & Son Tra
As we left the old city of Hội An, we started North towards Đà Nẵng & Son Tra Mountain. While Đà Nẵng is a beautiful city with nice beaches for Vietnam’s coastline, the true beauty lies on the Eastern peninsula of Son Tra.
This protected landscape hosts mountains that seem to climb into the clouds, hidden beaches with coral reefs, and elusive monkeys swinging in the trees! There are 25 species of monkeys across Vietnam, but the red-shanked Douc is renowned for its vibrant colors and other-worldly dark eyes.
Although there are only 2,000 left due to habitat loss and poaching, you have a good shot at seeing one! The road is called Monkey Road, and while you’re there, you can stop at the more touristy ‘Monkey Mountain’. But, if you drive slowly and keep your eye out for moving branches, you may be lucky to spot a rare troop munchin’ on some leaves.
Be sure to drive by the Lady Buddha statue (free entry), and up to the top of the mountain for 360 views!
Highlights
- 1:30 / 40 km
- Endangered Red-Shanked Douc Monkeys
- Lady Buddha Statue
- Marble Mountains
Day 2 - Hai Van Pass & Hue
As you leave Da Nang, you’ll quickly come to the Hai Van Pass – often named Vietnam’s most scenic road. The winding drive creeps along the coast, through rural towns and ocean views.
If the weather is good, take some time to swim under the Cầu Tràng bridge. It can sometimes be closed with a lot of rainfall, but it seems like the best place to stop and enjoy a dip. Unfortunately during our drive, the fog was pretty dense and it was tough to see the mountains and coastline, so we didn’t make any stops. Not to mention we lost some time due to a flat tire.
Once we made it to Hue we were ready to chill for the night. This is a great city to prepare before heading into the mountains. The city itself was the seat of the empire and showcased a lot of history for their ancient rulers.
Take some time to explore Hue, including the gated Citadel, Thien Mu Pagoda, Tu Duc Tomb, Minh Mang Tomb, and Khai Dinh Tomb! There are plenty of tours that take you to the best sights in town – many of which can be seen from the road with a simple drive-by if you’re short on time.
Things will be much more remote from here on out, so be sure your bike is ready to go, top up on petrol, hit an ATM, and bring plenty of water!
Not even 15 minutes after leaving Da Nang, we blew a tire on the highway. There were so many people on the road pointing us to a shop, which was able to repair it in 1.5 hours for only 150.000 VND ($6). It was a lucky spot to happen and a good reminder that anything can happen on the road!
Travel with extra tubes incase this happens to you!
Highlights
- 2:15 / 102 km
- Hai Van Pass scenic highway
- Thien Mu Pagoda & Citadel
- Hue Walking Street (nightlife)
Day 3 - Khe Sanh
You’re now well on your way to some of the most scenic views of the drive! The journey to Khe Sanh takes around 4 hours to drive 176 km, with stunning mountain views, a rural landscape, and a refreshing waterfall to break up the drive.
There are plenty of gas stations along the way, towns with restaurants and street food, and internet connection the majority of the time. The roads are in great condition, but the closer you come into Khe Sanh, the more gravel patches and potholes you’ll hit, so drive carefully!
Stop in the town of Hồng Thượng to grab a bite to eat or a bahn mi for the road, and head over to Thac Anor for a mid-day picnic at the waterfall. Parking was only 10.000 VND, and there was an easy paved path to the falls. A great place to swim and stretch your legs.
Try to arrive in Khe Sanh well before sunset and explore the Ta Con Airport Relic Museum. This is a preserved military base used during the Vietnam-American War. Only 50.000 VND for entry ($2), and you can see where soldiers fought and died, along with warplanes, tanks, explosives, and a small museum showcasing the history of the battle fought here.
Highlights
- 4 hours / 176 km
- Thac Anor Waterfall
- Ta Con Airport Relic Museum
Day 4 - Long Sơn Valley
You’re now in the best part of driving the Ho Chi Minh road. Many people crush a drive from Khe Sanh to Phong Nha in one day, but, we like to move slowly and not rush exploring this beautiful landscape so we broke it up, and we are so happy we did! If you’re on a time crunch, combine days 4 & 5 into one day and get an early start.
We also didn’t get into Khe Sanh until after the war museum closed, so we went in the morning and didn’t leave Khe Sanh until 11 am.
The landscape kicks up another level on this leg of the journey as the limestone mountains get taller, steeper, and more densely forested. We stopped shortly after leaving Khe Sanh at Thác Tà Puồng waterfall, a quick walk off the road, only 10.000 for parking, and an insane turquoise waterfall!
When we arrived, we were greeted by the friendliest locals yelling ‘hello hello’, offering cold beers, cooked fish, and fresh fruit. We were happy to take it slow and be able to enjoy our time here.
We cruised into Long Sơn just before sunset and we were happy with our timing since this valley was beautiful! It is a small town with 1 hotel, 1 restaurant, and many locals who were welcoming and friendly.
Highlights
- 3 hours / 135 km
- Thác Tà Puồng Waterfall
- Long Sơn Valley Exploration
Day 5 - Drive to Phong Nha
The drive to Phong Nha is a quick one from Long Sơn allowing more time to explore side roads, swim with locals, and enjoy the journey. We thoroughly explored some valleys and swimming spots in the area before heading out at 12. There was only 1 other traveler in town, and we were both amazed at the untouched beauty of the area.
Phong Nha national park is the most famous part of driving the Ho Chi Minh road, and maybe all of Vietnam since it is home to the world’s largest cave! Often called the ‘Kingdom of Caves’, you will want to be prepared to settle in for a few days to thoroughly explore it all.
The roads continuing north are very safe, except for the fact that it’s hard to keep your eyes on them – the views are too good. Be sure to stock up on petrol, water, food, and anything else as there are no other stops in between. This is about as remote as you can get in Vietnam, so enjoy the serenity of it!
Take some time to stop at the Phong Nha Botanic Gardens on your way into the park. This will get you out into the jungle for a small hike, take a dip in a waterfall, and learn about the creatures of these jungles! There aren’t any other stops on this leg of the drive, but you’ll have plenty to do once you’re in the National Park.
Highlights
- 2:15 / 100 km
- Enjoy a slow morning in Long Sơn village
- Phong Nha Botanic Gardens
Day 6 & 7 - Phong Nha Cave Exploring
Depending on when you arrive and can explore on your way in, 2-3 days in Phong Nha is a good amount if you only have day treks planned. This town is very touristy since everyone travels here to explore among the largest caves in the world!
I suggest staying towards the town center (not along the river), and thinking about the caves you want to see early into your arrival. The most popular are Phong Nha Cave (boat access only), Paradise Cave, and Dark Cave. On a tour (~$60), you get the full tourist experience with zip-lining, mud-bathing, and cheezy photos. It’s not our thing, so we found some areas to explore without a tour.
Different tour companies have exclusive rights to certain cave areas. This gives them ownership in the experience there, the protection of the area, and keeps things a bit more organized.
For a self-guided excursion, check out Paradise Cave, Dark Cave, Botanic Gardens, or Tien Son Cave. Keep cash on you for parking and entry (usually not more than 100.000 VND), water, and waterproof shoes.
There is so much history in this area. Check out this podcast on the history and landscape of Phong Nha as you're driving through it!
Highlights
- Paradise Cave (self-guided)
- Take your motorbike across the Phong Nha Ferry Service (20k VND)
- Explore Jungle Roads, keep an eye out for Hatinh Langur primates!
Leaving Phong Nha
Leaving Phong Nha, you have a few options.
Option 1: Continue driving along the Ho Chi Minh road North towards Hanoi, stopping in Pho Chau, Mai Chau, and Hanoi. This route is roughly 13 hours of driving across 652 km and will add 3-4 days to your bike journey.
Option 2: Head to the coastal city of Đồng Hới, return your bike by putting it on a train, and head to your next location. You can find many rides out of the city on 12Go Asia.
We went with Option 2, mostly because the best part of the drive was over as the road returned into the valley and coastal cities. We love the slow pace, but these days would have felt like a grind to do it, so we headed to Đồng Hới for some train travel north!
On the map above, I have included the potential stops you can use if taking Option 1. However please note that I have not done this drive and these pins are just from my research and talking with other travelers! If you go this route and have suggestions to add, please let me know in the comments below.
Day 8: Đồng Hới
We left Phong Nha mid-day for the easy 45-minute drive to Đồng Hới. On the way you can swing north on the coast to Con Cat Nhan Duc, well-known dunes where you can rent a quad and rip around for a few hours!
As fun as this would have been, this day for us was 108 F (42 C), making it tough mentally to go into the scorching sand.
We ended our trip by sending our bike on a train to Hanoi for $40. Since we work remotely, we stayed in Đồng Hới for 3 nights to catch up on some work, wait out the holiday high prices, and do some much-needed laundry!
Highlights
- Nhan Trach Dunes
- Ocean Views
- Laundry & resetting 🙂
Lessons Learned After driving the Ho Chi Minh Road
- Do not underestimate an early start, especially during hot weather!
- Refill water every chance you get, and bring a water bottle with a filter so you can refill at the many waterfalls!
- The driver should definitely have an International Driver’s Permit – although you can usually rent a bike without one, cops on the road have been known to extort money (up to $300) if you don’t. Also, medical insurance will not cover you if you’re not permitted to drive!
- Be sure you know where you’re going. Not all roads are accessible by motorbikes, and there are intricate spelling differences that can throw off your maps.
- Knowing some local language goes a long way. In some of the remote towns, you won’t see other travelers for hours. Get to know the locals, they are mostly very curious and excited about visitors, but be respectful of their space and privacy – their home is not a museum.
- Don’t plan too much, you never know what to expect. From a broken down bike, road closures, bad weather, or personal things… keep your plans loose with a good idea of your goals.
- Phong Nha is touristy. If you have a lot of goals in the area, plan in advance. There are some cool 2- or 3-day treks that need to be planned early, so don’t wait until the last minute!
- Enjoy the journey. These are some of the most beautiful drives we have ever done. Don’t crush out every day, stop to take it in, and enjoy the moment!
Summary - Driving the Ho Chi Minh Road
You will not regret driving the Ho Chi Minh road. Unlike many other drives in Vietnam, this is remote, authentic, and relatively easy compared to other multi-day drives! The road conditions are great, the people are friendly, and the views are insane.
Although this is a very doable drive, don’t underestimate how remote you will be. Sometimes we didn’t see anyone else on the road for over an hour and we could go multiple days without seeing another traveler!
With the right preparation and mindset, you’re in for an amazing week of driving through Vietnam’s most pristine landscape of limestone karsts and remote villages. If it’s not on there yet, add driving the Ho Chi Minh road onto your bucket list!
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